By Paul Guay
Special to the Reporter

In a retail sector increasingly dominated by large corporations, it's hard to imagine any Mom and Pop grocery store still thriving. Chains stores first gained foothold of both food and retail during the early part of the nineteenth century, and by 1929 captured 40 percent of the food industry's retail market share.  Independent store owners simply could not touch the low prices that the supermarkets offered, changing the core dynamic in the way we shop.   With almost all of their smaller adversaries out of the way, the supermarkets had only themselves to compete with.   Over time, with a catlike stealth, prices crept upward.

For the few city neighborhood food markets who have maintained their niche, there continues to be a place in the free enterprise system for them.  

Ashmont Market &endash; at the corner of Ashmont and Adams Street- is one.

"We started around 1984, with a little help from our Dad. Since then, we have seen at least three markets in this area go out of business," said co-owner John Georgoulopoulos.  This old-school family food mart provides a social and community function beyond selling goods.  As a member of the Dorchester Board of Trade, Ashmont Market helps contribute to scholarships, worthy causes, and local disaster relief.   In addition, owners Harry, John, and Peter Georgoulopoulos give back in their own way to the neighborhood.

"Sometimes we give money, and sometimes we give away food," says John. "There is always some good cause in need, especially with the kids. We have some plaques on the wall over there, Pop Warner and the C.Y.O. But we like to keep all that stuff low key, you know?"

If price is your number one concern, then you might want to do some re-thinking if you believe that the supermarkets have Ashmont beat across the board. I first took notice when buying Wonderbar bologna at Stop and Shop: $2.79 per pound. Ashmont's price is $2.29. 

How can this be? -- one might ask. Where meats are concerned, Ashmont's prices have the big boys beat, hands down. I took the liberty of making a comparison of their prices with a local supermarket. Ashmont's famous steak-tips are $5.99 per pound, (un-marinated,) and 6.99 marinated, as compared to $6.49 in the nearest supermarket. Every item at Ashmont's deli section was considerably lower than the sample supermarket chosen; in some cases by more than 2 dollars per pound!

Similar findings were discovered in steak, pork chops, hamburger, and chicken as well.  The price- as well as the quality- has earned the Georgoulopoulos some loyal fans.

"You got to try their steak-tips," said Ashmont Street resident Maryanne Novak. "They are the best, and cheap too.  And their other stuff isn't all that expensive either.   It's not what you would think."

The meat and deli prices weren't the only bargains to be found. There were some major brand name products in the case study found to be priced lower at Ashmont-- specifically 18oz. jars of Welch's Grape Jelly: the Ashmont price is$1.99-- Stop and Shop, $2.19. Hood Light Cream: Ashmont price, $1.75, Stop and Shop, $2.29.  Land of Lakes butter was a whopping one dollar cheaper per pound at Ashmont. Go figure. 

In addition to simply buying deli meats, Ashmont also provides delicious subs at bargain prices.

"I like the fact that I can walk down the street and get a good sub," said neighborhood resident Mike Clark. "And they have those little British candies too.   I can't find them anywhere else."  

People have been known to go far out of their way in order to partake in Ashmont's famous steak and cheese sub; and the price?--$3.50 for a small and $3.75 for a large.

"Depending on demand, we get fresh meat deliveries at least twice a week, sometimes more," says co-owner Harry Georgoulopoulos. With deliveries coming in that often, the quality of their meat and dairy products is on par- even superior to their giant counterparts.

Another element that keeps the brothers Georgoulopoulos in business, customers say, is the service. An old-style tab system- unheard of in today's modern supermarket, is still incorporated in Ashmont's credit of doing business. When's the last time you heard anyone say, 'Put it on my tab.'" The phrase is still in play at Ashmont, where favored customers' orders are recorded on a paper slip, which is paid periodically. 

"We like to help anyway we can, but to be honest with you the tab system really doesn't work," says John laughing. "It kills our inventory, we lose customers, because they think owing us money means they cannot come back, and it ruins relationships too. Yeah, we keep on doing it, because we can't say no."

In some ways, the corner market functions not unlike the public street corners of ancient Athens.  It is a medium for communication.  For those who live in the area, consolation, advice, and comfort are provided by the three brothers at no extra charge&emdash;areas of expertise normally reserved for psychotherapists and bar tenders. 

Not long ago, when I needed a plunger, they allowed me to borrow one, because they had none for sale.  What it all boils down to is a fifth major reason, not previously mentioned, for choosing where to spend your money: loyalty.

"We like to think that there is a sense of loyalty between our customers and ourselves," says Harry. "We appreciate everyone's business, and we always try to do our best. And we are always open to suggestions&emdash;ideas to make anything better. After all, we have been here for 25 years."