With all the excesses and imprudent embarrassments in today's local media, it seems a shame to level harsh words at publications that seek to celebrate the-literally -"best of Boston."

But what's in a name? To certain publications, "Boston" means the North End, the Back Bay, Beacon Hill, with a smattering of the South End and South Boston, and an occasional nod in the direction of the outlying student haven of Allston-Brighton.

But Hyde Park … where's that? Roslindale … not close enough to Newbury Street?

And aside from the patronizing pats on the head that these outlets once in a while deem worthy to dish in this direction, readers of these so-called "insiders' guides" who don't know any better might think that Dorchester, the city's largest neighborhood, doesn't have much to offer in the food service industry.

To wit: The Zagat restaurant guide, a supposedly comprehensive survey of the best places in town to eat, lists the eateries by neighborhood. Anyone checking a recent map of the city knows that Dorchester claims a pretty sizeable chunk of it, but how many neighborhood restaurants are listed in the Zagat? Four (five, if you count the Victoria Diner near Newmarket Square). That's just one more than the listings for Lexington, which - last we checked - was outside city limits.

Worse, Dorchester isn't even allowed its own category. Our neighborhood is lumped in with the South End, Mattapan, and Roxbury. Guess which of those garnered the most attention from the folks at Zagat?

This is symptomatic of a very narrow view of Boston, one that seems to hold worthless anything not in the shadow of the Hancock Tower. While we have in this space expressed our desire for more places around here offering quality, affordable sit-down dinners, anyone who thinks the neighborhood rates only four mentions either isn't working hard enough or isn't eating enough.

The Improper Bostonian's recent "Boston's Best" issue reflects the same bias. In its food and drink section, there are 65 categories, with Dorchester going zero for 65. The Improper's readership is obviously a twentysomething and thirtysomething crew, so it makes sense that many of the choices would be skewed their way. But don't some of those people live in our neighborhood, too?

For those who charge that we're choking on sour grapes because the Reporter didn't take home the title of "best neighborhood newspaper," know that we take comfort in siding with the rest of the neighborhood as underappreciated

And then there's Boston magazine, whose customary nose-in-the-air, head-in-the-sand treatment of the city is on display again. Not a single mention of our neighborhood in this year's "Best of Boston" issue. Curiously, Hingham rates six.

Boston does feature a page of Lower Mills raves, recommending a tour of the neighborhood. But the tone is sickeningly condescending, containing gems like "Dorchester has been called many things, but 'intoxicating isn't one of them'" and stage-whispering about "the Dorchester stigma." We're not sure what that means.

None of this, of course, is surprising fare from yuppie puff-piece publications that double as fashion magazines. There are demographics to please.

But for a truly thorough and honest sampling of the best that Boston has to offer - be it cheeseburgers or hairstylists, bike paths or ice cream shops -why not try investigating the whole city with a frank outlook?

For talent, look no further than Columbia Road, where Adam Hirsh lives. Hirsh, when not running a summer camp or working in a restaurant, writes and sings folk music. And he's good enough that he spent last weekend at the Newport Folk Festival, tabbed as one of the five most talented folk musicians in the nation. He's a West Coast transplant, but he lives in Dorchester now, and he says his next home is in Dorchester.

So-called "best of" decision-makers might borrow a page from Hirsh's stand.

Boston is bigger than downtown; try it, you might like it.